Hyaluron Pen - All you wanted to know about it
By Siiri Tabri
SharpBrows / Everyoung master trainer
One of the most prominent reasons to publish this site was to demystify the hype related to Hyaluron Pen. As from the beginning of 2017, it has been a growing trend globally. As with many other such beauty trends the first actual scientifically sufficient experiments with Hyaluron Pen took place in 2016/2017 after that it became apparent that the basic concept of launching Hyaluron acid mixture into face, neck or lips with a pressure pen works. After that, it had a breakthrough in Germany, Switzerland, Austria and also to some extent in Russia.
What exactly is Hyaluron Pen?
Hyaluron Pen is a rather simplistic device that allows generating enough pressure to launch Hyaluron Acid mixture into human skin. However, by no means, is it a miracle solution that will turn lips of any sort into lush and beautiful or remove all the wrinkles. It is just a device of transferring one liquid that is pretty vital when it comes to antiaging and beauty into human skin.
Is there restrictions when it comes to using Hyaluron Pen?
The main restriction when it comes to beauty procedures of such kind should be common sense. However, as we all do know, we cannot always count on that. When it comes to the procedure itself, it is totally non-invasive and on the contrary, to several videos that one can find on the internet the pen does not deliver Hyaluronic acid mixture to Hypodermis (subcutaneous tissue) where it would then spread. The result is much more superficial, thus containing a way smaller effects and/or risks when it comes to damaging health.
Is it semi-permanent? No…
By no means should the procedure even be called semi-permanent, as in the beauty industry fillers category the substance that is inserted into skin should be much longer lasting and stable like Calcium Hydroxylapatite (CaHA) to be considered semi-permanent? One has to understand that compared to CaHa (a well-studied filler produced as Radiesse), for example, that gives volume and boosts natural collagen production, Hyaluronic fillers do not stimulate collagen production at all, it just temporarily enters the skin and is then absorbed. Thus fillers used with Hyaluron Pen should be called non-permanent. More about that later, keep reading :)
What is this Hyaluronic Acid?
One of the reasons the procedure is rather simple and the substance inserted into the skin is safe is that the human body produces the exact same acid, that is actually composed of two sugars (Glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine). No need to get scared by the chemistry related terms, the point is simple: as the human body makes the exact same chemical substance, it is pretty impossible that one would get any sort of allergic reaction or complication from the substance itself. For fillers, the substance is produced using a bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus) that basically makes it rather easy to produce it. Now, obviously one should understand why the Hyaluronic Acid exists in the human body (joints, eyeballs, skin). Hyaluronic Acid produced by the body itself exists in Epidermis and Dermis layers of the skin and one of the main functions of it is to keep water inside the skin tissue (being part of the collagen fiber network in Dermis). Keeping it simple: the more Hyaluronic Acid there is inside the Epidermis and more importantly Dermis layer of the skin, the more water is retained in the skin, the moister it is and the more youthful it looks.
What happens to our own Hyaluronic Acid?
Over the course of the years, two things happen: the body itself produces less Hyaluronic Acid. More specifically the collagen fiber network is stretched and becomes allows less Hyaluronic Acid molecules to bind with water. It results in lesser hydration of the skin that (combined of course with the thinning of fat tissue on forehead and cheeks and thickening of it on the neck and chin and some changes in bone structure over the years), results in deepening wrinkles. However, one should understand that Hyaluronic acid molecule is a pretty badass fighter, as being a polymer and very hydrophilic (meaning it can form an enormous amount of connections and it loves to bind with water molecules, often being able to bind up to hundreds of times its own weight) it still holds the extracellular matrix pretty strong. Just the ability to be able to retain water decreases over time (thus the wrinkles etc) because the amount of collagen and thus also Hyaluronic Acid decreases.
What happens when you add some Hyaluronic Acid into the skin?
Compared to the Hyaluronic Acid found in the body and the Hyaluronic Acid inserted into the skin, as said before, the substance is exactly the same. Actually, it is exactly the same all over the species. However, if you get a good filler, the longevity of this absolutely different. Namely, the Hyaluronic Acid the human body produces has a pretty short lifespan (around 3-5 days), however the Hyaluronic Acid inside the carrier that you are able to treat the Dermis with can last for months (more specifically 4-6 months, usually, when it comes to fillers that can be launched into Demis with Hyaluron Pen). Why would that last so much longer? It depends on the polymeric chains of the substance - namely, it is possible chemically achieve so-called cross-linking, that allows a higher number of connections to be made between the molecules of the Hyaluronic Acid inside the filler, thus slowing down the enzymatic degradation. Basically, it means that the substance still is removed from the body through the absolutely natural degradation process and it just takes more time, allowing the Hyaluronic Acid inserted to retain the water inside the skin all over its longer life-span. And, it also has to be added, that whatever filler you are dealing with, you do not want it to stay inside the skin forever (it may lead to several problems, as we all know, happened with silicone fillers). Thus the fact that you have to come for a refill in 4-6 months, is a good thing.
Now you may think, it’s just wonderful! Is it really?
When it comes to Hyaluron Pen, then as said before, it is no wonder solution. First of all, you have to be pretty realistic when it comes to the results one can expect. As Everyoung Corporation has tested the Hyaluron Pen for over a year, we can confirm that some pretty good retention can be achieved when it comes to vertical lip lines, lip border, smile lines and, of course, lips itself. To those regions, it’s also pretty simple to use the pen even if one has not studied medicine for years. However, when it comes to eye region (crow feet, tear through) or forehead (frown lines), neck or even acne scars, we would not suggest going for those regions just yet. When it comes to filling the lips, then yes, in case the student has a clear understanding of what shape she is after and a quality filler is used, the results can be excellent.
Are there any restrictions client-wise?
Of course, there are. However, those are not so much related to health risks as those are related to being able to meet client’s expectations. As we know, there are different categories of wrinkles and it is a pretty bad idea to take the Hyaluron Pen and tell gullible clients that those can be fixed. The skin gets a bit swollen at first, then the effects last for a couple of weeks, maybe a month, and the situation looks as it was before - no better, no worse. Thus, we would categorize Hyaluron Pen to be more of a solution for aesthetically improving one’s appearance and not fighting the effects of aging. When it comes to lips, the treatment is often offered with some pigmentation (of course done after the lips have healed after the refill) and the results look fabulous.
What can go wrong?
As with absolutely all beauty treatments, always many things can go wrong. Still compared to injecting the fillers the risks are significantly lower. First the filler mixture - if it’s of the highest quality, noncarcinogenic, nontoxic, of course, persistent, then you are off to a good start. When it comes to using the pen then the pain is really surprisingly minimal - it does not hurt nearly as much as injecting, thus many who have come for the procedure and have been afraid to take a refill to injected Hyaluronic Acid, have been pleasantly surprised. Also compared to injecting fillers, there is no risk for such bruising, swelling or needle marks that can happen if the person providing the treatment does not know what she’s doing with a needle. As well as it would nowadays be pretty hard to cause Necroses with the Hyaluron Pen - actually, quite impossible. Still, the procedure should be avoided (as all the lip related procedures) in the case of Herpes, Hypersensitivity etc. And also, the last but not the least, problems have occurred with two things mainly: the provider of the procedure wants to meet the wishes of the client at any cost and goes for an insane amount or absurd lip-shape (it has to be kept natural) or (as said before) there is no client selection - incredible age-reversal is promised to an older lady with level 5 deep wrinkles and no such result is ever achieved.
What to keep in mind when selecting fillers?
Obviously, one has to start with the legal aspects. If you have never done anything medical related before there may also be restrictions on what substances you can you are even allowed to use (depending on the country). Still, in most cases, the selection is quite wide. If you decide to order something from China or other far-far-away places the inc list may not exactly match the actual contents of the product. So-called bad fillers are not bad in the sense that those would actually propose any sort of danger to clients, however, those just do not work. Mainly, we suspect the concentration of actual Hyaluronic Acid is lower (we do not believe, as some suspect that it would be animal based, because it would actually be more complicated in most cases to produce it that way - from roost combs etc - and it’s not even worse as a substance, still, as almost all fillers are not animal based, the producers just love to stress this fact on marketing purposes), bad ones must have lower molecular weight and definitely worse degree of cross-linking (that makes such Hyaluronic fillers degrade too fast), or sometimes the gel may be just too hard when it comes to viscosity and inserting that is pretty impossible :) Thus, in a word, the bad fillers just do not work or in worst case do not provide the elasticity or plasticity you are after when it comes to lips (however, most probably, you would not even be able to insert those into skin properly). In addition to that there is always a very dangerous and luckily improbable event that the person doing the treatment injects something totally toxic into lips that will never dissolve. If you do that then complications are guaranteed (however, then again, it presupposes extreme stupidity and opportunism if one even considers inserting something of unknown origin into human body).
Is it the new gold rush and will the providers of this procedure become rich?
Of course, there is a lot of so-called “stupid money” on the market at any time and some people are willing to do a lot to try to get it and find a shortcut to becoming rich in an instant. However, it won’t happen with Hyaluron Pen. The procedure is easy to accomplish technically and the results, especially when it comes to lips and smile-lines, can look nice. The fillers cost a little and the pen itself is also quite cheap (by the way there really are not very many differences when it comes to different pens, except for the minor design differences, although, all producers of Hyaluron Pens will have a long marketing material explaining why they have discovered something revolutionary). However good results are achieved only if the beautician knows what she’s doing. If she doesn’t know anything about the anatomy of the face, aesthetics of shaping the lips then there is absolutely no way the results could even achieve a satisfactory level. She just most probably finds a client that wants to pump something into her lips, she swings it, lips become thicker, maybe also asymmetrical, however, it shall pass.
It is a fact that the combination of the conditions for the gold-rush indeed exists as Hyaluron Pen ticks all the boxes. The treatment cost is really low (around 20-30 eur depending on the volumes) and the price relatively high (depending on the country from 150 to even 450 eur). Some just order the device from China and start blowing the liquid that comes with that into someone’s lips. This has and always will lead to problems. Although, as being said, the pens are quite similar and far majority of those allow the liquid to be pushed in, the real difference between a potential disaster and excellent result lays in two criteria: skills of the beautician to shape the lips in a natural and beautiful way and the quality of the filler. In most cases you get what you pay for and if the mixture is much cheaper than quality brands or you get it for nothing you get exactly that when it comes to the result of the treatment.
Finally, what is the correct name Hyaluron Pen or Hyaluronic Pen?
There is absolutely no doubt that the correct name is Hyaluron Pen - it has been internationally accepted and this term was indeed coined in 2018. The term Hyaluronic Pen is an alternative spinoff that is not incorrect per se, however does not represent the essence of the procedure correctly. Namely, the term Hyaluronic would hint that the pen itself would be hyaluronic in some sense. Well, it is not. It’s a pen to transfer Hyaluron to human body, thus it' should be called Hyaluron Pen. There is absolutely no sense to swim against the current when it comes to this. However, of course, as it has always been with all the gold-rush situations similar to this - many providers start advertising their magnificent treatments without even being able to spell Hyaluron Pen the correct way :)
The conclusion is simple: it’s just a tool to deliver some quality filler and combined with skills of shaping lips and ideally with some quality pigmentation the results can be beautiful.